Xela is changing. In a town just outside of town, men killed eight police officers at the station where they are based. The president of Guatemala, an ex-military man, has sent hundreds of soldiers to the region. I saw them in the park yesterday. Let's say their marching was far short of lock-step. They're awaiting a shipment of Israeli arms, according to the newspaper, and for now, are only packing 9mm pistols. Someone here told me that the attack on the police marks "the beginning of the end" for peace and tranquility in Xela. I've always found this town a bit hostile, anyway, but attacks on cops and a large military presence aren't going to make things any less so. None of which has anything to do with the woman in the photograph, who is, to be sure, very nice.